Just saw u were complaining beijing's 云南菜，we have one resteraunt in Shanghai very famous too, it's called "The lost heaven",maybe u can try.
for the old buildings ,in the city, u can go to 豫园，or u can take metro 11 go to 安亭.
and around 陕西南路，长乐路，淮海路，there are alot of things to see too.
i c, well, shanghai is actually a city where the Skyscraper combined with old small buildings, which i am always a bit surprised. if u wanna see 弄 and 巷, u can find a lot here, but different with beijing's, just don't go to Xin tian di, or the bund, those kind of place. i will recommand the old French concession area. and u can find plenty of great coffe bars, restaruants,etc.
FYI, for great cakes i have a personally liking place, Whisk, located at 淮海中路1250号